‎In 1998, Francys Arsentiev became the first American woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen

 

‎In 1998, Francys Arsentiev became the first American woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen. But on her way down, the mountain claimed her. Exhausted and starved of oxygen, she collapsed in the Death Zone. For days, climbers passed by her motionless body, unable to help in the thin air.
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‎ Her purple jacket became a haunting landmark for those who dared to climb the peak. For nearly a decade, she lay frozen on the mountainside—smiling in old photos, but silent on Everest’s deadly slopes.
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‎In 2007, a climbing team finally moved her body to give her a more respectful resting place away from the main path.
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‎Francys had climbed alongside her husband, Sergei Arsentiev, a seasoned mountaineer known for his determination and quiet confidence. The two had attempted the peak multiple times before finally reaching the summit on May 22, 1998. But their victory came at a terrible cost: the delays from multiple attempts left them dangerously exposed, with no oxygen, no margin for error, and no strength for a safe descent.
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‎ When Francys collapsed during the descent, Sergei made a desperate attempt to save her. He repeatedly climbed back up the mountain, searching for help and carrying supplies whenever he could. Other climbers reported seeing him exhausted, frostbitten, and still refusing to leave his wife behind. His refusal to abandon her became a tragic testament to loyalty in a place where survival usually demands brutal decisions.
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‎ Sergei’s fate soon became tied to hers. While trying to reach Francys again, he fell from a steep section known as the Yellow Band, disappearing into the ice fields below. It wasn’t until 1999 that an expedition team found his body further down the mountain, still wearing his harness, as if he had died searching for her. Their tragic story became one of Everest’s most haunting tales of devotion and loss.
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‎Francys remained on the mountain for years after Sergei’s fall, her body resting near a cliffside close to the northeast ridge route. Climbers passed her on their own summit attempts, describing the surreal sight of her still form, her purple jacket fluttering in the wind. Many felt a mix of sorrow and helplessness—Everest’s Death Zone makes rescuing bodies nearly impossible without risking more lives.
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‎ In 2007, mountaineer Ian Woodall led a small team on a mission called “The Tao of Everest.” Their sole purpose: to move Francys to a more dignified resting place. Battling brutal winds and thin air, they gently wrapped her in an American flag, performed a short ceremony, and lowered her off the main route. Their efforts finally gave Francys the respect she had long been denied, ending one of Everest’s most heartbreaking chapters.
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